zScapes Ramble On
Rapa Nui (Easter Island)

A once in a lifetime opportunity with encouragement from Betsey, and I was off to Chile on a Nikon sponsored photo workshop with Katsuyoshi Tanaka, a well accomplished photographer and extraordinaire teacher. The itinerary included Easter Island (Rapa Nui) and Patagonia with overnight stays in Santiago.

Rapa Nui is a special territory of Chile and was our first landing point via LATAM on their single daily flight. Access to the island is tightly controlled by DPI (Department of Police Investigations) as this island became a refuge for 'not so nice people' during the pandemic who disappeared into the countryside.

Some interesting facts (Wikipedia) ::
  • Populated around the year 800 (recent research indicates closer to 1200) the first Polynesians created a thriving and industrious culture
  • The Rapa Nui carved numerous enormous stone moai and other artifacts, with close to 1000 in various stages of creation and completion remaining
  • Deforestation crept in as the land was cleared for cultivation and the introduction of the Polynesian rat denuded the landscape
  • European arrivals, disease, Peruvian slave rading and emigration to other island depleted the population to 111 by 1877
  • The 2017 Chilean census registered 7,750 people on the island, of whom 3,512 (45%) considered themselves Rapa Nui.
  • At just 63.2 square miles, Rapa Nui is smaller than any of the major Hawaiian Islands except for Kahóolawe (Target island)
  • The island is the most southeastern point of the Polynesian Triangle in Oceania
    • Nearest inhabited land (around 50 residents in 2013) is Pitcairn Island, 2,075 kilometers (1,289 mi) away
    • Nearest town with a population over 500 is Rikitea, on the island of Mangareva, 2,606 km (1,619 mi) away
    • Nearest continental point lies in central Chile, 3,512 km (2,182 mi) away.
The Moai :: Polynesian Wonder of the Ancient World
These amazing masterpieces were carved between 1250 and 1500 by the Rapa Nui from the volcanic tuff at the main quarry, Rano a Raraku. Nearly half are still at Rano a Raraku with hundreds transported from there and set on stone platforms called ahu around the island's perimeter. Almost all moai have overly large heads, which account for three-eighths of the size of the whole statue. They also have no legs. The moai are chiefly the living faces (aringa ora) of deified ancestors (aringa ora ata tepuna). I have to admit, they are breathtaking and another example of engineering in the ancient world, in parallel with the Inca engineering marvels in Peru. My favorite spot was the quarry with the statues in various states of creation. More @ Wikipedia
South Island :: Rano Kau & Orongo
On our second day, we visited Rano Kau, an extinct volcano and Orongo, a stone village ceremonial center on the southwestern headlands.

Rano Kau at 1063 ft tall and a mile across was formed of basaltic lava flows containing obsidian and pumice used by island craftsmen. The caldera contains a fresh water lake (only 3 on the island) and the crater walls create a microclimate that shelters flora from the strong island winds, allowing figs and vines to flourish. Terevaka (tallest @ 1643 ft) & Poike (oldest) complete the trio of extinct volcanos.

Orongo was the ancient center of a yearly challenge where each tribe would send their best warrior to retrieve a mantra (sooty tern) egg undamaged from Moto Nui and return to Orongo. The task involved scaling down a 300 meter cliff (no ropes), swimming with sharks for a mile and then returning along the same danger laced path. The tribe of the first warrior that made it back alive would then rule the island until next challenge. Interesting way to solve inter-tribal conflicts!
Day into Night :: The Beauty Unfolds
This island has beauty around every corner. We experienced out of this world sunrises, majestic coastlines and nights filled with magic. And Katsu and the Explora team guided us along. This section will highlight the raw power of nature, enjoy!
Around the Island
Besides the rich Rapa Nui & Moai history and culture, the island has much to offer. Hanga Roa is the main city, port, fishing village and center of Rapa Nui life. We also ventured into caves @ Ana Te Pahu to practice light painting, captured local wildlife (photos not traps!) and enjoyed our time exploring.
Local Stuff
The workshop included accommodations @ Explora, a first class resort with first class team members.The staff was as attentive as I have experienced, professional, friendly and knowledgeable. If you stray into this corner of this world, this is the place to stay, all-inclusive so you leave your logistics behind and they take care of you. A it is a five start experience.

The resort itself is a blend of local architecture incorporating the Orongo warrior clan dwellings design and lines. On every excursion, the guide staff was there to educate and answer our questions bringing to life the landscape and history. On our final day, one of the guides, MeaMea, transformed himself into a Rapa Nui warrior beginning with body painting, showing off some athletic moves and posing for stills. The power and grace of his movements was mesmerizing and we are grateful for this glimpse into local culture.
May our paths & errands meet

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