zScapes Adventures

Getting there was a challenge given flight schedules and multiple transit points. SFO to ATL and overnight. ATL to LIM and overnight. Lima to Cusco and overnight. And finally, Cusco to the Sacred Valley. Three days to get here, well worth it in my humble opinion.

Maras is a town in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, 40 kilometers north of Cusco, in the Cusco Region of Peru. The town is well known for its salt evaporation ponds that are of prehistoric origin (900BC). Salt has been obtained in Maras by evaporating salty water from a local subterranean stream. The highly salty water emerges at a spring, a natural outlet of the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels constructed so that the water runs gradually down onto the several hundred ancient terraced pond. Access to the salt ponds is managed by the local informal cooperative for 400 families of the local community.

We returned the following morning to capture the sunrise on the Maras Pampas with fabulous views of the highlands and Urubamba Valley. Was worth getting up at 6am!

Moray is an archaeological site in Peru approximately 50 kilometres northwest of Cuzco on a high plateau at about 3,500 metres and just west of the village of Maras. The site contains Inca ruins, mostly consisting of several terraced circular depressions, the largest of which is approximately 30 m deep. As with many other Inca sites, it also has an irrigation system. The purpose of these depressions is uncertain, but their depth, design, and orientation with respect to wind and sun creates a temperature difference of as much as 15 °C between the top and the bottom. The latest research is leaning towards an outdoor greenhouse.

The Inca complex at Pisac is a large Incan complex of agricultural terraces, residences, guard posts, watchtowers and a ceremonial/religious centre located along a mountain ridge above the modern town of Pisac in the Sacred Valley of Peru. In 1983 the Pisac National Archeological Park was established to recognize the importance of and to protect the remains of the complex.

After taking in Mara & Moray sites, we had a long drive to the village of Chahwuaytire climbing up from the Scared Valley city of Pisaq to 12,631 ft (3,850 meters). Here nestled in spires of the Urubmaba range, is a small tight knit community of textile weavers who practice traditional methods and gather/farm all the materials to make natural dyes. We were allowed to photo them as they created their magic on a variety of looms and were treated to a demonstration of weaving styles and the dying process. And finished with an opportunity to buy these exquisite creations from the artists themselves. Of interest as this is a cooperative, any sale of merchandise was evenly distributed among the community with proceeds allowing them to send their children to school. You can learn more at the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales del Cusco.

Today we embarked on the crown jewel of our adventure, Machu Picchu. Having been here 52 years ago, I was wondering how much change has occurred. When I went, we caught the train in Ollantaytambo, rumbled along the Urubamba river, passed Agua Calientes, stopped dead in the tracks (no station), stepped down with the aide of a wooden box, boarded a minivan (VW), proceeded up the switchbacks to the entrance and marveled at the low slung hotel/restaurant with a Coca-Cola sign! On this trip, boarded in Ollantaytambo, rumbled along the river, stopped in Agua Calientes station, walked to the the bus staging area, boarded a 40 passenger air-conditioned bus, proceeded up the switchbacks (much improved) to an intensely crowded entrance and a 5 star hotel. The entrance was swarming with people snaking along one of two routes (reservations needed) and finally walking into the city. Fifty two years ago, about 200 people in and around and access to the entire complex. Fast forward to 2025, the daily quota is 6k via two routes and being pushed to 7k per day along 3 routes. Still the magical place I remember, hoping it can be preserved for the wonder it is. My last thought, you have to go and be there to absorb the power of this place.

Our itinerary today included exploring the city of Cusco, visiting Saksaywaman and a bit of street & night photography. As the capital of the Inca Empire until the 16th-century Spanish conquest, it was here where the Incas ruled their vast kingdom of the four parts and was the dominant civilization of South America for hundreds of years. When I visited in 1972 the population was ~126k and has now increased to ~512k, quadrupling over the years. Even with the increase, it still maintained the Inca/Spanish vibe of years ago. An ancient place built on layers of civilization as its peoples learned to adapt while remembering their culture and never forgetting where they came from. The red roofs of Cusco will always have special place etched in my memories.

On our sixth day, we started at Ollantaytambo @ 9k ft and ended up on the Sondor Pamapa @ 14k ft taking in the ancient empires last stand and the ancient geology of the Urubamba Valley. Ollantaytambo was utilized as a defensive stop against the advancing Spanish armies and in 1537 the Manco Inca defeated an expedition by flooding the valley, thwarting the horse centric troops. The city eventually fell to Pizarro, as the Manco Inca retreated to the forest outpost Vilcabamba. What really impresses you is the scale of the high terraces and the tactical chokepoint in the valley to guard against invasions.

Next stop, up to 14k feet to trek around the Five Lagoons in the Sondor Pampa among the soaring peaks of the Urubamba range in the Andes. There are few scattered small farms and Llama herding supported by the government with electricity, water and a 5G cell signal!

Our last day was allocated to a real early morning start to capture sunrise on Mt. Veronica. However, the weather gods were not cooperating and we diverted to Chinchero, halfway between Cusco and Urubamba Valley at 12,368 feet. There's a grand scheme afloat as a new airport is rising to replace Cusco and allow direct flights to the Cusco Region, bypassing Lima. And this project is not without controversy. Two main sticking points. Major concerns of the increased traffic to Machu Picchu and the viability of operations at over 12,000 feet with major peaks and terrain. However, our focus was on the local Wednesday market were we experienced a vibrant and pulsating scene where all came to buy & sell the commodities needed for day-to-day life. One word, fascinating! We finished the day at an overlook taking in the Urubamba Valley and the ever present Andes backdrop.

Time to go. The days & nights went by real fast, but the memories will not fade. It was a great group to trek with and our guide & teacher, Katsuyoshi Tanaka made the magic happen. Looking forward to my next trip, just have to pinpoint what's next. May you never run out of places to trek!