Beaujolais Walks, Wine & Dine
After finding an excellent air miles deal to London via The Points Guy, we started thinking about where else to go in striking distance. Lot's of options, but we went back to a favorite outfit of ours High Point Holidays. As we had a wonderful time on our West Mendip Exploring trip and they had expanded their offerings, we chose to experience the French countryside villages, history and wine in the Beaujolais region.
Lyon Old Town
We flew into Lyon and High Points arranged for a car to bring us to the Hotel Phenix in old town Lyon. A wonderful walking around atmosphere with plenty of cafes and history. Our concierge recommended that we taste local and help us find a gastronomique restaurant that specializes in Lyon favorites and found a charming spot in a cozy square with outside seating. Was fun to people watch and see day to day life. The next day we were treated to a walking tour with our guide Maicon (once again arranged by High Point) and walked the narrow cobbled medieval alleys in the UNESCO district taking in St. Jean Gothic Cathedral, Traboules passageways, Resistance landmarks and some incredible vistas.
Château De Bagnols Basecamp
This was to be our headquarters for three walks and 1 private tour. Not too shabby, actually 5 stars and part of the.Relais & Chateaux network where we stayed at the Tahiti Le Taha'a resort in 2006. Beautiful grounds, super attentive staff and a historical gem. Built in 1217 by Guichard d’Oingt, a powerful lord in the Beaujolais region that you can read more about at this link. Our room was right out of a medieval novel/movie complete with a moat, drawbridge and defensive perimeter. What fun!
Tour of Oingt & Ridges Walk
First day out was a loop trip from our Chateau via three villages, which we managed to make two of them (two out of three ain't bad!), le Bois-d Oingt & Oingt. A stunning hillside village, Oingt French roots go back to 1000 when the Lord d'Oingt built a chateau with a moat and churches. Prior it was a Roman castrum (military camp -or- fort) named Yconium and where viticulture was introduced that survives into our modern times. The climb out from le Bois-d Oingt to Oingt, while providing sweeping views of the countryside, took its toll especially the last push into the city. After seeing the village sights and climing the Dungeon (tower) steps for a 360 degree view, we started to look for alternate means to get back to the Chateau. We had pinned our hopes on catching the local bus, however, it was Sunday and no service! Fortunately, our High Point coordinator Fanny came to our rescue. That night we dined @ La Cadole in Sainte-Paule, a quaint 8 table restaurant that was delightful.
We had recovered from the hike, however, I had caught a cold which upended our walk for the next day. Did not stop us from having a good meal @ Chez Marguerite back in Oingt.
We had recovered from the hike, however, I had caught a cold which upended our walk for the next day. Did not stop us from having a good meal @ Chez Marguerite back in Oingt.
Beaujolais & Perouges Private Tour
After resting for a day to get over my cold, we were ready to get out and about. Fortunately, our third day was non-walking starting with a visit to a local winery touring their gardens, vineyards and cellar, followed by a picnic lunch. The Chateau de Champ-Renard was a charming place and the wines we tasted were of high caliber, as we bought a few to bring back to London. In fact, all the wines we tasted and consumed from the Beaujolais Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée were of high quality, dispelling an unfortunate bad name acquired from the original Beaujolais Nouveau marketing scheme and scandals that have plagued the region. Next, we crossed the Saône into the region of a 1,000 ponds followed by a walk thru Pérouges, a cobblestone medieval village. Dinner was back in Beaujolais @ Le Télégraphe in Marcy-sur-Anse.
Jarnioux to Bagnols Walk
Our last day and last walk. We started just outside Jarnioux along the old railway line (Voie du Tacot) that had connected several villages in the area. A great reuse of right-of-way with excellent views of the chateau built at the end of the 13th century. The trail weaved in and out of the old railway line, included tree lined paths, paved trails, open fields and village centers passing thru Ville-sur Jarnioux, Bonave, Theize, Frontenas and finally ending back at Bagnols. A nice paced walk with dinner @ La Table due Donjon in Oignt with our guides. A perfect finish to a wonderful time in the land of Beaujolais.
May our paths & errands meet